Love, No War

The weather has created some messy conditions here.

The weather here has been see-sawing back and forth for the past two days.  At night we get pelted with small snow flurries which turn into rain the next morning.  Then later in the afternoon, the temperature changes again and the precipitation forms large feathery snowflakes before repeating the night cycle.  This

Brand new ANA Ford Rangers.

see-sawing of precipitation has created slush and a muck dirt mixture on the dirt roads we travel.  Considering this is the same mud they make their bricks and cement mixture to build their walls out of, it’s important to scrape it off of your combat boots before it dries.   The other day my interpreter and I tried to take a short cut between buildings

"Love, No War" painted on an Afghan truck.

and found our boots quickly sank into the muck and then attached itself like glue.  By the time we had reached the asphalt road, our shoes had expanded by double in size and in weight.  What a mess!

In the pictures are a new fleet of ANA pickup trucks, 7-tons, and up-armored Humvees, compliments of our US taxpayer dollars.  As the

More donated school supplies and Beanie Babies arrive at the camp.

size of the ANA forces expands, so does their requirement to have more vehicles to transport the troops and logistics.  While outside the camp today, I spotted a truck that caught my attention.  Judging by the words and symbols painted on his truck, I may have found an Afghan “tree hugger” … lol.  I think it should have said “Love not War” or perhaps it was restating the popular Vietnam 1960’s anti-war slogan “Make Love not War” might have been the intended phrase.  But his variant of this expression “Love, No War” was noteworthy and was deserving of a photo to be added to my archive of unique Afghan truck photos.

Students at Oak Grove Middle School packing party. Thank you for the AWESOME job!

Amidst the snow flurries, I transported another 20+ boxes of school supplies and Beanie Babies to my storage conex.  The conex is bursting at the seams and needs to be reorganized so I can accommodate more boxes.  Thanks again to everyone for all of their generous donations.  The schools will reopen in March and I will be able to distribute all the

Rick Grant (left) and Benjamin Smet of Oak Grove Middle School in Cleawater, FL trucking some of the donated supplies at the packing party.

donations and make some children very happy.  Liisa recently visited Oak Grove Middle School in Clearwater, FL and collected another carload of donated school supplies.  Two former military personnel, Benjamin Smet and Rick Grant, who are now teachers spearheaded the drive and their enthusiasm was passed onto their students who took up the cause and filled boxes with donated school supplies.  I also had a chance to communicate with them via Skype and thank them for their energetic spirit in supporting this humanitarian cause.  But what really moved me were the powerful words composed in a poem by an 8th grade female student. Thank you again, Ana Benz, for this poem.  Ana has given me permission to share it with my readers.

The Afghan Student

Words of the adults engraved in my head.

I stare and think while laying in bed.

These thoughts running through me of what he said.

“Boy, you’re the future.”

Kids are always slacking away.

Forgetting homework, letting their brains decay.

But I’m here in a different situation.

Across the world in blazing heat, a fiery sensation.

My people struggle with a war to be fought.

And only one thing is sought.

Education.

The kids and myself all want to learn.

To be educated and not watch my village burn.

People are fighting to help us be free.

But we want to help, hear our plea.

Echoing sounds of not one, not two, but hundreds of kids.

Their voices can’t be contained, not even with lids.

They want to learn, but their supplies are low.

If you do help, slowly, but surely, it will show.

The small pen or pencil you lost.

Or the barely used paper you tossed.

You take it for granted, that small little tool.

That little thing can provide the fuel,

To start a spark that will start a fire.

A fire of education. A fire that we require.

With a pen at a time.

We can all climb.

Climb that ladder that leads to freedom.

The freedom, we desire.

Hear our pleas and help us.

One lost pen is another’s sword.

By:  Ana Benz, 8th grade student, Oak Grove Middle School

Ana Benz, 8th grader, interviewed by WUSF Radio's Bobbie O'Brien for a news story that will run on 89.7 FM.

Puddles of Water

Army Sgt Major as my TC.

It continued to snow all day and all night. But by night time the size of the flakes were miniscule in comparison.  This morning when I woke up, the precipitation had turned to a rain/snow mix.  Today we were going to visit Camp Phoenix and take care of some maintenance tasks and some administrative issues.  Afterward, we would drop off a

Sloppy day in the city.

teammate at Camp Blackhorse.  This would be my first time in driving the Maxx Pro MRAP for a long distance.  The Army Sgt Major would be my Truck Commander (TC).

We departed the camp and the snow had already started to melt forming large puddles of water.  All of the road potholes were full of water and the dirt had turned to mud.  The

Street vendor with his 4-wheel cart.

weather had no effect on the street vendors as they were busy setting up their fruit stands and items to sell.   We traveled rather slowly through the market area so we wouldn’t accidentally splash the citizens when our big tires would drive through the mud holes.  Otherwise, someone would complain about the occupiers or infidels purposely splashing the people.  These are the opportunities that the Taliban look for so they can dissuade opinion against the coalition forces.  But instead, we practiced good Counterinsurgency (COIN) principles and did not soak any innocent bystanders.

Large puddles of water at Camp Phoenix.

Sitting with an AF SMSgt Select and Major Select at Camp Phoenix food court area.

By the time we arrived at Camp Phoenix, the temperature was increasing causing the recent snowfall to melt even quicker.  Large puddles had already formed near the entrance and vehicles were causing ripples as they drove through it.  An Army SFC and I drove our vehicle to maintenance to have some work done and the entire parking lot was flooded.  While I drove, he waded through 4 inches of water and got his boots soaked while guiding my MRAP on foot.  Since there are several blind spots on these mammoth vehicles, we rely on spotters to guide us on the ground to prevent from hitting any unsuspecting pedestrian traffic.

While at Phoenix we took a break at one of their MWR facilities.  The Captain was thirsty along with his friend.  This is when I found out “my Captain” was recently selected for promotion to Major.  Congratulations Captain, you deserve it!!!  The MSgt sitting to my right was also selected for promotion to SMSgt (E-8).  My Captain and he have known each other for quite awhile.

Road leading to Camp Blackhorse.

The next part of our journey was a jaunt to Camp Blackhorse.  One of our teammates will be staying there for a few days.  We wanted to beat the city traffic, so we made a quick turn and burn and dropped him off.  I didn’t get out of the vehicle and wasn’t close enough to the gate to catch a glimpse of Liberty or Justice.  Perhaps I will see them again in the future.

The trip back through the city was uneventful and we were able to get a jump on the rush hour traffic.  The snow continued to melt and the puddles of water had grown in size and in depth.  We made it back to camp and parked the MRAPs for another day.

The 3 Amigos ... lol!

What is that white stuff?

It's starting to snow.

Last night after completing my TAC duty, I walked back to camp from ANA land.  Shortly after arriving at my B-hut, it started to rain.  The temperature was dropping and I was certain the freezing rain would turn into snow.  When I awoke in the morning, my assumption was right.  It was snowing and the snowflakes appeared to

Ugly looking snowman.

be getting larger by the hour.  Lately it has been cool in the morning and at night, but during the day it has been rather warm.  Being from Tampa, Florida, balmy might be too strong of an adjective.  But the weather has been unexpectedly warm.

Since it started snowing, it hasn’t stopped and the flakes are increasing in size.  I spoke to a contractor who has weathered several years here and he said February and March are the winter months here.  According to him, he last time we had these same weather conditions, it snowed for 3 days straight.  As much as I like the snow, I don’t enjoy trudging through it to walk to the latrine and shower room.  So far it seems to be melting and not

Despite the snow, the vehicles must be inspected.

accumulating too much.  Some energetic soldiers were scraping off vehicles, roofs, etc to get enough snow to build a snowman.  That must be the dirtiest snowman I have ever seen….lol

Despite the blustery weather, we still had to perform our weekly inspections on the vehicles.  A little bit of snow never hurt anyone and we had to ensure our

Is that a snowball in your hand?

vehicles were inspection order in case we are tasked with a mission.  Some of my teammates also engaged in a friendly snowball fight.  Actually it appeared two of them were ganging up on an unsuspecting teammate who had his back turned.  So perhaps if he is interested in the responsible culprits, my photographs might shed some light on who the

Who are you going to throw that snowball at?

guilty parties might be.

A friend of mine sent me a humorous picture.  It just goes to prove that I am not the only one who sees bizarre things here and takes unique pictures.  The picture was supposedly taken in downtown Kabul.  Look closely in the back window and you will see a McCain-Palin sticker …. lol.

McCain-Palin sticker in back window of a truck in Kabul.

Lastly, I couldn’t resist taking some pictures of the stray camp dogs outside the camp.

ANA Camp dog posing for camera.

They are very friendly and even pose occasionally for a picture.  Vixen didn’t hear me approach, so she was sound asleep with her puppy nap.  I’ll bet if a piece of Pupparoni accidentally fell from my hand, she would wake up … lol.

Vixen taking a nap.

An Epic Tragedy

In the past 9 months, I have met some colorful people in Afghanistan.  They have appreciated my interest in their culture, history, and philosophy.  As such, they provide me insights and stories you don’t read about in a book or newspapers.  Over numerous cups of tea I find out some interesting stories or a sneak peak about their personal lives.  These personal details are cultivated by developing a relationship and gaining trust of the individual you mentor and many cups of green tea.  I must point out that the tea leaves are green, but the tea served is a urine color yellow. It wouldn’t be so bad, but they serve the tea in a transparent glass.   Even though I am not a big tea (chai) drinker, it’s customary to drink a cup of chai when offered by your host so they won’t be offended.

Last night while interacting with some Afghan soldiers on duty, they took an interest in a book I was reading.  The book is a historical and pictorial guide of Afghanistan.  One soldier was eager to show me how much English he knew.  He would find a passage and then read it aloud to me.  His pronunciation and enunciation was fair and I commended him on his reading abilities.  Although he could pronounce the words, the meaning and context eluded him.  An interpreter was visiting from Kandahar and he helped to translate the meaning.

While perusing through my book, he stopped at a page showing a village in Badakhshan Province.  This is when I learned about an unfulfilled love tragedy or perhaps folklore that is still told today.  The poem was first recorded by a 12th century poet.  In the town of Baharak, there is an empty irrigation canal.  The legend begins with Fahrad, a stone-cutter, who fell in love with Princess Shirin after only seeing her once.  But because he wasn’t from royal blood, there was no way he could marry the princess.  Fahrad would spend whole days in the mountains without food and played music on his flute in praise of the princess.

The King heard rumor of Fahrad’s sentiment for his daughter.  So he made a proposal to his daughter.  Since Fahrad was of common birth, he would have to accomplish a task such as that no other man could do.  Fahrad would have to dig a canal in the rocky land that was 6 lances in width (approx. 60 ft), three lances deep (30 ft), and forty miles long.  After this was done, Fahrad could marry his daughter.

Farhad immediately went to work on the canal.  He worked for many years on it and the princess would find him at night propped up by a shovel.  She also noticed he would cut her figure in the rocks every 6 yards.  Farhad finished the canal and the last task was to dig a well that would sprout a fountain that would feed the canal with water.  He was half way through with the task, when the King consulted his advisers.  They come up with a plan to discourage Farhad.

An old woman visited Farhad and announced the princess had died.  Farhad was so distraught; he cut his head with his sharp spade and died under the carved image of his lover.  His blood was the only liquid that touched the canal.  Princess Shirin learned of the evil plot and ran to the mountains to the same spot where Farhad had died.  She too inflicted a fatal wound to her head.  No water ever flows into the canal, but the two lovers are entombed forever in the same grave.

Ironically while reading the daily Afghan paper (English version), I discovered that the National Solidarity Programme of the Ministry of Rural Rehabilitation and Development is constructing a micro hydro power project, five safe water reservoirs, and cleaning an irrigation canal in Badakhshan province.  Perhaps now, Farhad’s canal will flow water.

Logistics and a Stone Wall

Logistics conference with ANA.

Since the beginning of time when large armies have mobilized, logistics functions have played a vital function.  Whether it’s providing subsistence, fuel, firewood, or bullets, the logistician’s role has complemented the effectiveness of an army.  The Afghan Army is no different and is faced with a myriad of logistical challenges.  This is where my ETT team

ANA 7 ton truck loaded with soldiers.

plays a fundamental role.  Today we held a logistics conference in an attempt to resolve some of these nagging and persistent challenges to the logistical system supporting the Afghan forces.  For OPSEC reasons, I won’t divulge the context of the meeting, but I think some of the problems addressed were resolved.  Others will take time until an amicable solution and agreement is reached.

Although it was not addressed, one of the biggest problems still plaguing the logistical system is the endemic corruption at all levels.  Education can be a powerful tool, especially when it is combined with capitalism.  So educated businessman have found ways to maximize profits by subcontracting, providing inferior quality and the rabid frenzy of corruption festers its way through the entire logistical system.  A prime example is the low-grade quality of the food being provided to the ANA soldiers.  They are constantly complaining about the poor quality of the meat and food items provided to them.  Years ago when the US controlled the contracts, the ANA boasted about tasty food and being able to drink Coca Cola in their chow hall.  But now this lucrative contract has been turned over to the Ministry of Defense and handed out to local contractors or relatives.  The quality of the food has taken a nose dive and Coca Cola is an afterthought and nonexistent.  Yet, I have been told we are still providing the same amount of money as we did when the US administered the contract.  Perhaps this explains why the contracting office will receive 5-6 email follow-ups just to ensure their first email was received concerning bidding on a local contract.   A camp mate also told me about a meeting he attended on budgetary issues.  A prominent Afghan stood up and addressed the crowd.  He said, “We don’t need the additional coalition forces, all we need is your money”.

Building a wall, Afghan style.

Yesterday I briefly spoke about the challenges and the walls a mentor runs into during the normal course of their deployment.  But today instead of being metaphoric, I want to give you some insight to the building of a wall.  To be more precise, the construction of a stone wall.  The Afghans have become quite skilled in building walls.  They have customarily put up walls to clearly define their property boundaries and to provide security for their families.   The wall in the picture is to enhance the security posture for our camp.  Notice the crude wood scaffolding that is being used.  The cement is mixed by hand in a wheelbarrow and then transferred by shovel to a large metal bowl.  The masons then carefully align the stones and secure it with the cement mixture.  The first picture was taken a few weeks ago and the cold weather has hampered their progress.  But today I took an updated picture to show their progress.

Construction of the wall.

Lately, ANA land has been flooded with new recruits and I watch daily as these former farmers, teenagers, and unemployed laborers are transformed into ANA soldiers.   Most of them are attracted to the new salaries being doled out.  But there is also hope that a

ANA soldiers marching around the ANA compound.

spark of nationalism is starting to ignite and they are serving to protect the national interests of their country.  I am hoping next week to observe some of the NATO weapons training being provided to them.  Before we can swap out their AK-47 rifles, we have to make them proficient and knowledgeable on handling and using an M-16 rifle.

Interview with WUSF

Here is the link to today’s radio story with WUSF’s reporter Bobbie O’Brien. We talked about Excel spreadsheets and mentoring the Afghan National Army.

My Last Tour: Dari spreadsheets

Dari Keyboard

Afghans manually loading the truck with soil.

In high school, I received a little bit of teasing about taking a typing course.  Only a handful of guys including me were brave enough to take this class that was dominated by females.  But somewhere in the back of my brain, I knew that those skills would serve me some day.  Since then, it has paid off handsomely.   I can type my own research papers for school and still hack out about 50-60 words a minute too.  Mrs. Lamp would be so proud of me….lol.  But none of my schooling ever prepared me to type on a foreign keyboard or explain how formulas work on an Excel spreadsheet.

For the past few days, I have been working studiously with my ANA counterpart on accountability.  The tool I’m using is an Excel Spreadsheet.  For anyone who has basic knowledge of computers and programs, this program is fairly easy to use once the formulas are created.  Then it’s just a matter of populating the data points.  But for someone who only has a rudimentary knowledge of computers and a high school

Abandoned Soviet APC.

degree (Afghanistan level), it becomes rather challenging to explain basic algebra, formulas, etc.  As such, I have finally made headway and when my counterpart does understand, it’s like a bright light comes on in his head.  For me, it’s just another small victory in mentoring.   The 2nd half to this challenge is using the Dari/English keyboard.  It becomes really complex when I try to type on the same line that has Dari characters and try to use numerals such as 7 ton truck.  I am still puzzled because it places the number after the Dari characters.  I find myself thinking in reverse (because they read from right to left) to make sense of this and be able to type English words in conjunction with the Dari ones.  I can’t even find the words to explain what I am trying to convey, so I will move on.

Destruction from the civil war.

I drove around a seldom traveled part of ANA land today too.  This time I had my camera handy and took some pictures of the war destruction.  At one time, there was a flourishing army residing here, but during the civil war between the competing war lords, this place was obliterated.  The only thing remaining are the bombed out remains of the structures

Army Lt and interpreter.

and piles of rubble.

An Army Lt rode around with me today too.  In the picture, he is posing with his interpreter.  I bet you would never guess that back in the US, he is a school teacher.  His school recently collected 5 large boxes of school supplies to support my Afghan school supplies program.  He and I will be working closely together on some future humanitarian projects.   The DOD blog guidelines prevent me from mentioning his name, but if you look closely at his name tag, you can figure it out.  It doesn’t make sense, but I have to follow the rules…lol.  It’s not an “Armyism”, but a “DoDism”.

The next picture is the remnants of Osama Bin Laden’s mosque that was being built before he fled from Kabul.  Previously I posted a distant picture, but today I was able to get a clearer and closer shot.  After Bin Laden escaped, the construction ceased on this project.  So now it just sits like the abandoned Soviet tanks, armored personnel carriers,

Unfinished foundation of Bin Laden's mosque.

and destroyed buildings as a historical reminder of the past.   Perhaps someday, the historical landmarks I have featured on my blog will become tourist attractions for foreign and local tourists.  Although some are grim reminders of a horrific past and atrocities committed, they still serve as integral part of Afghanistan’s history and hopefully a symbol of something not to be repeated.

In the interim, I will continue with my mentoring hoping to make a small difference.  I’m still committed to supporting the education platform and watching this country transform into a nation of people who one day will be able to make decisions on their own.  I know it will take time and it’s not going to happen overnight.  Quoting Leo Tolstoy in War and Peace, “The strongest of all warriors are these two—Time and Patience.”  I have to constantly remind myself of this.

Around ANA Land

Some days I really don’t know what to write about.  My day becomes routine and I consider the things I do rather mundane and uninteresting.  But for my wife and family members and now seven hundred daily readers, anything I take a picture of or write about draws them closer and helps them understand my year long experience.  As such, here is the latest.

Rock outline of soldier with rifle appears on the hillside.

While walking around ANA land, an AF Captain pointed to a soldier on the hill side.  At first I couldn’t understand what the big deal was until he explained it wasn’t a real soldier.  After closer look and explanation, I observed an outline of a soldier constructed of large rocks.  The only time you can really see it, is when it snows and then the snow melts revealing an outline of soldier armed with a rifle.  Perhaps my blinders have been on and I just never noticed it.  So now my curiosity is getting the best of me and I hope to find out more information about this artwork.  Was it created during the Soviet era or after the Taliban were ousted?  What is the purpose of this rock sculpture?  These are some of the questions I hope to pose to my ANA counterparts.

Current ANA library.

One of my stops today was the proposed site for the new library and literacy program.  The ANA Garrison commander has designated some room space inside a large building to accommodate these programs.  The current library is compressed into a small room and the shelves are sparsely stocked.  There are 99 books for the

Titles of 99 books.

entire library.  The three primary themes were religious, political, and history.  Notice in the picture how they number sequence the books on the listing attached to the wall.  There was one book that looked out of place and had an American title, but was written in Dari.  It was Toby Green’s book, “Inquisition, The Reign of Fear”.  In the near future we will have an opening for an expanded library and literacy room.

ANA Hall of Honor.

Next to the library was a very special room held in reverence by the ANA.  This was the Hall of Honor.  When distinguished guests visit, they are asked to sign the guest book.  The walls are adorned with framed scripts written in the native language.  Our interpreter translated some of the meaning for us.  In the back of the room are framed pictures of President Karzai, the Minister of Defense, and the Army Chief of Staff.  To the right of the president’s portrait at equal height and of equal size is a picture of Ahmad Shah Massoud nicknamed the “Lion of Panjshir”.  He is almost legendary in Afghanistan due to his roles of being a Soviet resistance fighter, Defense Minister, and then the Northern Alliance leader.  He was assassinated on 9 Sept 2001 (2 days before the Sept 11 attacks on the US) by suspected Al-Qaeda agents.

Female ANA General Khotul.

On a side wall, there was a snapshot picture of a woman that caught my attention.  She was wearing an Army beret and an ANA officer uniform.  Her name is General Khotul.  She holds the distinction of being the first and only female ANA general but she was also the first female ANA paratrooper.  I don’t know much more about her, other than she was a guest speaker at women’s seminar in 2008 in conjunction with some female Air Force women.

Before visiting the new library site, I popped my head inside the ANA barber shop.  Some of the soldiers were a bit shy of my camera, but the barber was posing for me.  What I really wanted was a picture of the tools or scissors they used to cut hair.  I have never seen

Just a little bit off the top, please!

anything like them in my life.  Oh well, I still have 3 months left to resolve my intrigue and as long as my camera is functional, I will take more pictures of mundane stuff.

Friday’s radio interview with WUSF

Had a chance to chat with WUSF’s Bobbie O’Brien this week. Here is the link to that interview, which aired Friday in Tampa during NPR’s “Morning Edition” and “All Things Considered.”

My Last Tour: 30-hour mission

MRAP Certified

RG-31 MRAP overlooking Kabul.

For the past two days I have been in class learning about all the gauges, knobs, and devices on various MRAP models.  So now I am certified on all 3 of the MRAPs to include the Max Pro, Cougar, and RG-31 models.  The only one I haven’t trained on is the new MATV.  But the best part of the training was that it was conducted locally.  We

Snow covering barren land.

did not have to go to BAF for our training.  The contractors normally conduct the MRAP classes at BAF.  Somehow our ETT leader with his power of persuasion convinced them to visit our camp and train our team members.  So now instead of the Air Force being the only ones trained on MRAPs, our Army brothers can

Snow covered peaks near camp.

experience the joy of being behind the wheel.  Before long, I might work myself out of a job since they recently qualified on the crew serve weapons too.

The first part of the course instruction was “Slow Death by PowerPoint”, but since we already went through the torturous 40 hour course on another model MRAP, we were given the condensed and abbreviated 14 hour course.  Despite driving them several hundred miles in the past few months, I was still able to learn something new.  I was totally unaware of a water plug in the back of my vehicle.  When the instructor released the plug, a torrent of water poured out.  So now I wonder without my ballast how my vehicle will ride…lol.

Darulaman Palace with city of Kabul in background.

We also were required to demonstrate our driving abilities too.  This was the fun part of the course and we drove up to the former Russian Officer’s club as part of the curriculum.  This road is not for the faint of heart with the steep incline and drop offs.  There are still old Soviet vehicle carcasses at the bottom rusting away.  I can only assume, they failed to

Tajbeg Palace with city of Kabul in background.

negotiate the hairpin turns or lost control of their vehicle.

At the top of the hill, we had a great birds-eye view of the surrounding city and the two palaces that were destroyed during the civil conflict here.  Also notice the snow is starting to cover the crest and encroach on lower elevations.  Personally I like the snow because it gives new

My haven't you grown!

color to the drab brown craggy ridges.  While there, I ran into a familiar friend.  The last time I saw this dog, it was still a young puppy with short hair and chewing on my boots.  Since then he has grown a thick fur coat to ward off the cold.  He is still rather timid, except for when he is around the ANA soldiers.  This is rather unusual because most ANA soldiers and Afghans do not like dogs.  But this dog seems to be an exception.  The soldiers play with the dog and he seems to reciprocate by being a good guard dog and barking when strangers approach.  He also appears to be quite healthy, so it’s apparent they are feeding him.

We returned to camp and parked the

"Nameless"

MRAPs.  Since we didn’t attend their 40-hour course, we don’t get the fancy certificate that normally accompanies the course completion.  Instead, it’s just another addition placed on our military driving license.