Afghanistan My Last Tour

Tajbeg Palace known as Queen's Palace

The first landmark that came into view stood out majestically from the hilltop.  This was the infamous Tajbeg Palace or more commonly known as the Queen’s Palace.  It was constructed in the early 1920’s and built for the queen during King Amanullah’s rule.

AF Captain sitting inside Queen's palace

Later on that day we toured (self-guided) this palace and learned more about its historical significance.  On Dec 27, 1979, after cutting off the communication networks in Kabul, the Soviet army stormed the palace (Operation Storm 333) with around 700 soldiers and executed President Hafizullah Amin, family members and approximately 170 personal body guards.

Damaged dome inside Queen's Palace

Thus began the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan.

During the first year of the occupation, the Soviets killed over 11,000 anti-Marxist opposition citizens.

Marine Master Guns posing with a gun previously used to guard the palace

This only added fury to the resentment of the occupation and led to the formation of the mujahideen.   For the next 10 years these warriors lived in the mountains and constantly attacked the Soviet army and their resources.  During the 10-year Soviet-Afghan war this palace served as the Headquarters for the Soviet 40^th Army.  Throughout the facility, there are remnants of homesick Russian soldiers who scribed messages on the stone walls.

After the Soviets departed the country, a power vacuum existed and warlords and alliances fought over territory.

Swimming pool at Queen's Palace

These tribal feuds permitted the Taliban their opening to seize power and occupy various structures and governmental positions.  In 2001, the alliances with the help of coalition forces engaged the Taliban and removed the Taliban from power. During this period of conflict, the Queen’s palace was severely damaged by mortar and rocket fire.

It’s interesting to note about some other wall scrawlings.  At the end of a long corridor a NATO soldier inscribed “One death is a tragedy, a million is a statistic—Stalin”.  According to Afghan statistics, over a million Afghans died during the 10 year war with the Soviet Union.  Another saying was a quote from the Greek Philosopher Plato, “Only the dead will see the end of the war.”

Darulaman Palace also known as the King's Palace

As we approached the Darulaman compound, we had a clear view of another Afghan famous landmark.  This was the Darulaman Palace, otherwise known as the King’s Palace.    It too has suffered the wrath of war and has a colorful historical background.  This neoclassical structure was built in 1923 for King Amanullah Khan.  It was the largest building and still may be in Afghanistan.  The king envisioned this structure as a meeting place for Parliament.  The name Darulaman translates to “abode of peace”.  But the reformist king’s downfall was when he issued a decree permitting women to be educated and for them to be seen in public without the hajib (scarf) or burqa.  The Islamic clerics disagreed and did not like the king unsurping their power.  As a result, King Amanullah was removed from power and died in exile.

In 1969, the structure caught fire.  It was restored and used as the Kabul Museum.  During the communist coup, it was attacked and caught fire again.   Also when the mujahideen factions were battling for territory, the palace suffered additional damage.  Today there is a restoration project in progress.  The Germans and the Afghans have formed a partnership to restore the building to its original condition and also fulfill King Amanullah’s vision to transform it into an assembly meeting place for Parliament.  Due to security concerns, we were unable to tour this palace.

Inside corridor of Queen's Palace

I heard rumors about an underground tunnel that leads from the Queen’s Palace to the King’s Palace but was unable to confirm or see it.  Several areas in the palace are blocked off by rolls of concertina wire and due to lack of time; I could not substantiate this information.  I did learn about a tunnel proposal for the King’s Palace that will eventually lead into the capital city, thereby minimizing traffic concerns.

During my 3 days at Darulaman I had the opportunity to see some additional historical sites.  Cont’d Part 3 and 4.

Filed under: Missions Tagged: | Afghanistan, Darulaman, Deployment, ETT, Queen’s Palace, Tajbeg Palace, U.S. Army, war